Riding the South Downs Way

The South Downs Way is a lovely 100 mile bridleway between Winchester and Eastbourne as it undulates across the top of the South Downs.  Between the hills are the valleys, so you are usually going up or going down, and it gets rather lumpy as you approach Eastbourne.

Picture by Anne Dickins

Most discerning mountain bikers have the South Downs Way somewhere on their 'Must Do' list.  It certainly is a classic ride that can be tackled in a variety of ways.  Two or three days is a sensible option if you are not used to riding more than 50 miles at a time.  Admiring the views and stopping at one of the numerous B&B's along the way enables you to take in more of the South Downs.

More experienced riders challenge themselves to the 100 mile trail in a single day.  Don't be lured into the false sense of security of  the relatively non technical double tracks and the apparent flatness of the South East of England.  The South Downs Way is a cunning animal that will devour anyone who is not prepared.

Here are some tips from someone who has ridden the South Downs Way a few times in the past.

Know the Route - Although there are markers along the way, some can be missed if you are not specifically looking out for them.  A wrong or missed turn can lead you down a long descent, only to find that you need to climb back up again.  Study the route on a map paying particular attention to the turnings and cunning forks when crossing wide open fields.

Break the route down into sections - When you have ridden 20 miles, it makes it harder if you think about the 80 miles to go.  Focus on the 10-15 miles in front of you to reach the next check point.  Later it will be tempting to look back and congratulate yourself on achieving 80 miles.  Your body will say "I must be knackered after riding all that way" then will really struggle for the next 20 miles.  Look back only when you get to the finish.

Check Points - There are loads of places for supportive friends to meet you along the way.  Listed below are the popular places with some helpful information.  If you are taking part in the BHF Randonnee ride, it may be worth avoiding some of their check points due to limited parking.  

View South Downs Way in a larger map

Location	Distance from Winchester (approx)	Comments
Winchester	0	Some parking (chargeable) next to King Alfred's statue. Parking at the cricket ground used for the BHF ride, toilets on site.
Lane End Mulburys Pub	7	The Mulburys Pub just before Wynd Farm can be used but it's a bit close to Winchester.
Old Winchester Hill	15	There is space for a few cars by the gate leading to the field to Whitewool Farm. On the way to QECP there is a small layby at Wether Down.
Queen Elisabeth Country Park (QECP) A3	22	Easy parking (chargeable) Coffee/snacks for supporters, proper toilets. Good location which is used by the BHF.
Directions	30 31	Follow the bridleway going left at Telegraph House (don't go through the gate) After the climb at Devil's Jumps turn left at the crossing of the bridleways towards Cocking.
Cocking A286	35	Free parking Tap 200 metres up the track East of the road. Good location which is used by the BHF.
Bury A29	45	Very limited road side parking Used by the BHF
Amberley High Titten Road	47	Tap on the right between the bridge over the river and the bridge over the railway line. High Titten Road is quiet and good for parking. Don't stop for too long as the steep climb of Amberley Rise is waiting
Storrington Car parks	50 51	The car park South West of Storrington is set just off the SDW behind a gate The SDW goes across the car park South of Storrington
Washington A24	53	Free parking - just before a gritty climb Good secluded location with some shade.
Steyning Bowl	56	Two large gated entrances on top of the hill provide an alternative to the small car park on the A238 at Botolphs, however these are more difficult to access by car.
Steyning / Botolphs A238	60	Some parking (watch out for the vehicle height barrier) Tap between the car park and the bridge. Used by the BHF.
Truleigh YHA	61	Tap on the left by the main entrance to the Hostel
Devil's Dyke	64	Used by the BHF.  Very limited parking next to the SDW however there is parking by the pub for a small charge. Saddlescombe is a better location.
Saddlescombe	65	Free parking in natural lay by for a few cars.  Good location with some shade. There is a tap the other side of the farm houses.
A23 crossing	66	Limited roadside parking by the bridge crossing over the A23. Easy for the support crew to reach
Ditchling Beacon	70	Easy parking There is often an ice ream van in the car park.
Housedean Farm A27	75	Some parking, popular location. Tap on the wall
Southease	81	Tap by the church, near the entrance to the graveyard
Itford Farm A26 crossing	82	Tap by the farm house near the road. Limited parking.  Used by the BHF.
Firle	85	Easy parking (watch out for vehicle height barrier in main car park) Good motivational check point near the top of the hill.
BoPeep Farm Alciston	87	Easy parking about a mile off the A27. The SDW forks left 300 metres after the car park. If you get to a gate without the SDW acorn, you may have gone the wrong way.
Alfriston	90	There is a car park as the SDW enters Alfriston which could be used as a check point. It is difficult to park by the river where the BHF have their check point. There is a small layby on the East side of the river There is also a small car park part way up Windover Hill
Jevlington Directions	93	Once over Windover Hill, go through the gate and turn left heading down into the woods.  Take the subtle fork to the right leading to the church. This can easily be missed.
Eastbourne	100	In 2012 the end of the SDW was moved from Paradise Drive to King Edward's Parade. There is limited parking In King Edward's Parade near the small café.

It's tempting to stop for a rest at each of your chosen check points.  Have in your mind exactly what you need before you arrive at the check point, grab it then go.  Keep an eye on your progress and try not to let the stops be more than 5 or 10 minutes.  Lots of stops can very quickly add up which could easily equate to an extra 1 or 2 hours. 

Hills - Most of the hills are rideable, but if you're moving slower than walking pace it's time to get off your bike and use different leg muscles.  This will give your cycling muscles a rest and it’s a good time to grab something to eat if you can't eat whilst riding.  When climbing a long hill get into a comfortable rhythm and have something solid to think about, look just a few metres ahead and you'll soon find yourself at, or very nearly at the top.

The South Downs Way has very approximately 100 feet of climbing per mile.  Incorporate hills into your training rides so your legs are not so surprised when they see the South Downs.

To complement your training on the bike, invest in some core stability exercises such as Pilates, sit-ups, planks, swimming etc.  Having a strong core will give your legs something solid to push against.  Someone with a weak core, whose shoulders and hips rock when pedalling, is like a mountain bike with very soft suspension absorbing all the power from the pedals.

Try to eat on the go, there are a few short road sections where it is easier to down a gel on the move. Have some food accessible in a pouch by the stem to nibble as you ride.  Consider your diet carefully; too many sweet things may make you feel sick, not enough food and you'll run out of energy.  Pack a variety of foods with spare supplies in the support vehicle.

A lot of time can be wasted in negotiating the 100 gates.  Work with a friend so only one person needs to stop to open and close the gate.  If you are on your own and feeling confident you can try negotiating the gate whilst keeping your feet clipped in to the pedals.  Always check the gate is properly closed if there is livestock in the field.

Pedalling hard to gain a few extra mph on the descents really won't save you a lot of time.  It is much better to recover on the downhill sections so you are fresh to climb the next hill.  Increasing your speed by a few mph up a hill will save you much more time in the log run.

Although it sounds pretty obvious, do have your bike thoroughly checked before the ride and carry the appropriate spares.  I'm amazed at stories of experienced riders taking the wrong size of tube or forgetting a pump.  I share a tip on how to avoid this in my book.

If you are finding it really tough, focus on the rear wheel of the rider in front and do your best to keep up with them.  The last part is all in the mind, using your mental strength and positive thoughts to persuade your body to keep going. Think of the money you are raising for charity and how it can help those in need.

Completing the South Downs Way is a fantastic achievement. Congratulate yourself.

You can get a National Trust certificate here

Preparing for the South Downs Double

A few people have contacted me saying they would like to have a go at the South Downs Double.  To act as a reference for other potential South Downs Doublers, here is some information that may help.

The main difference between the SDD and a race or event, is that you have to organise your own ride.  Few decisions are made for you, so it’s a matter of making appropriate choices to help you achieve the Double.

Choose Start point

The Double has been achieved from a variety of start locations.  Originally Winchester was the favourite with the flatter start and finish, then riders chose Eastbourne to coincide with the BHF Randonnee events, whilst some have started from the middle.  Personally I think it sounds better going from one end to the other.

Select a date

Unlike an organised event with a set date, you have the wide choice for the time of the year and the day of the week.  Naturally the summer is better with the longer days and the generally dryer conditions.  Some experienced riders have taken the opportunity of a good weather window, leaving just 2 weeks of final preparation before their Double.  If you are attempting the Double for the first time, preparation is the key, and try to be flexible with the date in case there is bad weather.  I spent 9 months planning my ride with the choice of two weekends.  To help with navigation riding with a full moon will improve night time visibility, providing there is a clear sky.

Pick a Start Time

When choosing your start time, consider your natural body clock and the duration of darkness.

Setting out first thing in the morning will leave the night riding till the end when you are tired.  Alternatively, starting in the evening will help with the night riding but tiredness can set in on the second leg.  Check out the sunrise and sunset time for the hours of darkness.

If you're going for a record attempt you can almost avoid any night riding.  Ian Leitch chose well by starting at 3am  to finish at 9pm.

Route

The official SDD route is on the www.southdownsdouble.net web site.  A New Temporary route was introduced via Exon in 2009 and the End at Eastbourne was extended by about a mile in 2012.  If you are going for a record breaking attempt consider the routes used by your past, or future, competitors.  Check the directions carefully as there are some variations with the route currently marked and that used by the BHF.

Navigation
If you are looking out for the SDW signs, you'll probably spot them.  However some signs and turnings are not immediately obvious.  Study the maps very carefully noting any turnings or forks.  Remember that some turnings can easily be missed when travelling in the opposite direction.

In several locations there are roads running alongside the SDW bridleway.  For the Double, the bridleways should be used.

Following tracks at night is relatively straightforward.  Traversing wide open spaces, especially in thick fog that may appear in the early morning, can be tricky.  A GPS navigation system will help you stay on the right trail but is no guarantee.

Hills

The most challenging hills are at the Eastbourne end with the hardest section being from Eastbourne to Ditchling Beacon.  The hills appear to go on forever with steep descents.

It is often easier, yet slower, to walk up the steepest hills.  Make the most of this opportunity off the bike to grab something to eat and use different muscles.

Gates

There are 190-200 gates encountered on the Double.  Learning how to open gates without unclipping your feet will save a bit of time and effort.  If you get really bored or need motivation, you can count them.

Support riders

Whilst it is reassuring to have riders accompany you on the Double, unless otherwise stated, it is meant to be a solo effort.  If other riders are with you, you will need to set the pace and open the gates as if you are riding solo.

Support Crew

This may be a 24 hour event for you but it's also a 24 hour event for your support crew.  Build in some rest times for the crew with a longer distance between some check points.  I gave my crew a 2 hour rest between Winchester and the QE2 Country Park when they could grab 40 winks.  Supply loads of food and refreshments for your crew.  I even provided some in car entertainment for them in the form of the Blackadder Goes Forth CD.  Apparently this helped them to keep awake in the early hours.

Check points

As you can choose your check points, space them out so your support crew can reach them in time.  It can take a while to follow the SDW by road where sometimes it is quicker to ride.

If possible select check point locations to be at the top of hills.  They will motivate you on the way up the hill and you won't have a dreaded climb immediately after a break.  Some of the check points used on the BHF ride have limited parking.

Have a plan in place if the support crew are not at the expected check point, with at least two forms of communication between yourself and the crew.

Taps

There are several public taps along the SDW.  Have a backup plan in case the one you want is not working.

GPS battery backup

If you use a GPS to validate your ride, ensure the battery will last the duration.  I made an external battery pack for my Garmin Edge 705.  Some riders have used a fresh GPS for the return leg.

Authentication

To qualify for the South Downs Double, your ride will need to be verified.  Check with the adjudicators on the www.southdownsdouble.net site for acceptable evidence.  A GPS log or photographs with a timing clock at specific locations could be used.

Reward

Completing the South Downs Double is a fantastic achievement, which has only been accomplished by a few.  Be aware that it's a tough cookie where there is less than a 50% success rate.  Whether you are a regular long distance rider or just a weekend warrior, it’s a mighty challenge that will get you smiling for a long time.

The official South Downs Double site is www.southdownsdouble.net Do let me know if you come across any more advice that can be offered to potential South Downs Doublers.

If you want advice on preparing for a 24 hour event, see Anne Dickins

Enjoy the ride and watch out for the wildlife.

The Big Day - The South Downs Double

The plan was to set out on the Friday evening from Eastbourne, ride 100 miles through the night to Winchester, then use the motivation from the BHF Randonnee riders to help me back to Eastbourne. The few other Doublers started from Winchester, where several have done it Alpine style (unsupported). My admiration goes to those who can ride for hours on end, self motivated and self supported. I needed all the help I could get from my support crew.

At 6pm on Friday 26th June 2009, I set off from Paradise Drive in Eastbourne. Taking the 350 foot climb during the first mile carefully, I looked out towards the downs. The day had finally arrived where I was hoping that all my training and planning would pay off.

On the top of the downs there was quite a head wind. Reaching Firle, I received my first and only puncture. With a quick change of the tube I was soon on my way.

The descent to Pycombe was fast and enjoyable where I reached the A23 ahead of schedule. Here was my first longer stop after 30 miles where I tucked into a tub of pasta and the crew sorted out the night riding gear. Rory Hitchens from Exposure Lights came to meet us and it was a real boost to have his support. The climb up to Devil’s Dyke paled into insignificance compared to the fantastic sunset around me.

Climbing up to Steyning Bowl in the dark there is a large field to cross. I saw what I thought was a tractor with lights about 500 metres away. I also heard some gunshots. It turned out to be a 4x4 with flood lights shooting at anything that moved. They came within 100 metres aiming their search light right at me. I glared back at them with my Joystick head torch and fortunately they moved on.

Catching up with my support crew I then headed up to Chanctonbury Ring. The mist was really thick here with visibility down to just 20 metres. Suddenly I saw a whole series of small white lights in front of me. Getting closer, it was a flock of sheep with my bright lights reflecting off their eyes. Making appropriate noises they quickly scarpered so I could continue along the trail. The Exposure Lights were fantastic, anything less would have made it very difficult.

At Washington, Neil Newell (South Downs Doubler) caught up with the support crew and me. He kindly rode with me for a few miles, which was quite comforting given the previous two incidents.

At Glatting Beacon the trail runs along the edge of a field where a number of sheep were grazing. Verbally announcing my arrival the few sheep with the brain cells moved to the centre of the field, where some others started running away from me along the trail. They carried on running for a while where I was slowly catching them up. All of a sudden they turned and charged straight towards me! I let out an almighty ‘Roar’ as they crashed into my bike with quite some force. Somehow I managed to stay upright and sped off checking that I was not being followed. I was certainly glad to leave that field.

The climb up from Cocking was tedious. Visibility due to the mist was around 10 metres and the climb is long and uneven. My target here was Harting as I knew the hills afterwards got easier with the exception of Butser Hill by the A3.

Reaching the foot of Butser Hill the trail is hardly marked, except for the slightly shorter grass. With visibility still at just 10 metres and knowing the trail goes straight up, I head up the steepest section. With some wading through the longer grass, I eventually found the gate half way up the hill. Trying hard to stay on the shorter grass, I came across a trig point. I was clearly off course and visibility was now even worse. Using the GPS, which isn’t very good for off road navigation, I finally find a road and got back on track.

The trails approaching Winchester were wet due to the recent rain. Mud was flicking everywhere and I was soaked through. The halfway stop was at Cheesefoot Head on the A272 where it was getting light. I freshened up with a clean top and dry gloves. I tried to eat some cereal but started to gag.

It was a relief to reach Winchester for the turnaround at 05:17 matching my personal best time for the SDW.

Setting out on the return leg the smallest of hills caused a problem. I felt sick and gagged a couple of times. Picking myself up, I aimed for the QE2 Park. Descending Butser Hill with a mist was a challenge. It was such a relief to see the support crew as I felt pretty low. Eating a tin of Spag Bol tasted and felt good.

Just after leaving the QE2 Park my rear gear cable snapped. Finding a tree to hang my bike on, I replaced the cable and roughly set the gears so I could use most of them. Two BHF riders passed me so I caught them up where we stayed together until Harting. It was so much more motivating to ride with company.

At Cocking I was feeling very tired and the sun was now very hot. Being up all night and riding for 15 hours was taking its toll on my body both physically and mentally. John Twitchen from Sauce Consultancy on my support crew rode with me to Amberley. I was bored with my iPod music and it was great to have some alternative company. Returning to the field of sheep at Glatting Beacon, two of them faced me with broad shoulders and stern looks either side of the trail. As they stepped sideways I slipped past with no incident.

I’ve never been able to ride the climb up Amberley Rise and today was no exception. From the top I set a good speed to Washington, then up the steep chalk climb to Chanctonbury Ring.

After 160 miles near the bridge for Steyning, I saw Alex Bottomley from Redhill Cycling Club riding towards me. He turned around to ride with me. Following the steep climb from Steyning and with the heat of the sun roasting anything in sight, I stopped beside the road. Sitting down I felt as though I couldn’t move a limb. I wanted to lie down and rest, forget the Double I just wanted to go home. Alex was superb, he made me get up and we rode carefully to Truleigh Youth Hostel. I longed for him to give me a push, but the rules of the Double say that it must be my own effort. Putting my head under a tap at the hostel and soaking my arms and legs, I cooled myself down.

Passing Devil’s Dyke I head down to Saddlescombe to meet the support crew who provided just what I need without me asking. A couple of other Redhill Cycling Club members had kindly driven down to see me, and the text messages of support from friends were read out. This was a real boost. I felt if I could set myself small milestones I would be able to complete the Double. I had serious doubts on the sub 24 hour time, so I just focussed on finishing.

Climbing through Pyecombe golf course I aimed for Ditchling Beacon in the scorching heat. Looking forward to the descents after the beacon to the A27, I gather speed to cover the ground quickly.

Neil Newell met me at the A27 and accompanied me up the very long hill near Kingston Hollow. It’s a tough climb and the company was really appreciated.

Descending to Itford Farm on the A26 I was greeted by a BHF team who were very enthusiastic about my Double ride. Posing for a photo or two, I then tackled the climb up Beddingham Hill. My check point was deliberately at the top near Firle. The support crew were again fantastic, but drew the line at applying my chamois cream.

Jon Linscott from my support crew took a turn in riding with me. His freshness uplifted my spirits as we passed Alfriston. It wasn’t until I reached Jevington where I realised that a sub 24 hour time was possible. Passing the trig point on the top of the last major hill, I gave it all that I had to make it to the finish. The descent down to Paradise Drive was fantastic where my crew were poised with cameras to record the finish time of 17:31 The total time was sub 24 hours at 23:31.

I feel really honoured to have touched the league of the elite. The other South Downs Doublers have my full admiration for riding 200 miles unsupported, where some of them have ridden the double more than once. It was a privilege to ride with Neil Newell and have the support from Rory Hutchens from Exposure Lights.

The rock on the support crew was my brother Dave Sterry. He provided just what I needed at the right times. Jon Linscott and John Twitchen kept my bike in tip top condition accompanied by their superb sense of humour. Other members of Redhill Cycling Club were very supportive with their messages. Steve Young my fitness trainer described my fitness as ‘Pants’ in December. His gruelling training programme did the trick.

The 200 mile ride with 20,000 feet of hill climbing pushed me to my limits, then further still. The South Downs Double is certainly awesome and ridiculous, but if you don’t try, you won’t succeed.

Thanks to Rory Hitchens, Neil Newell and John Twitchen for the photos.